Peter Aston

Kettering, Tasmania

2011-11-05T15:46:00.000-07:00

Our three months in Holland were wonderful but it is greatto be home. Illywhacker was patiently waiting for me and came alive with aflick of a few switches. The engine started at first turn, refrigerationhummed, water pump came up to pressure, lights glowed in a warm welcome and theheating reminded me that Spring was a bit late. We've had some beautiful dayslately though with that clear sky you only see in cold climates, reminding meof Cordova, Alaska. It's time once again to haul out for a bottom paint and tofit new engine mounts and a new shaft seal so November will be a busy timebefore illywhacker ventures out for Summer cruises in Tasmanian waters - can'twait!

Edam, Holland aboard our canal barge Burra Billa

2011-09-22T09:05:00.000-07:00

In the last week, Burrabilla has been covered daily in autumn leaves, the trees beside the canals are now almost bare. The temperatures are dropping and the rain and grey skies continue. Not exactly the conditions you would choose for a canal barge holiday in Europe! Neverthless, like the locals we don our wetgear, hop on our bikes and wander the cobbled streets of Holland's many ancient cities. We've splashed through Gorichem, Montfoort, Gouda, Leiden, Haarlem, Alkmaar, Purmerend and many places in between. Today we are in lovely Edam, a bit late for the cheese festivals but nevertheless, a charming city.
Two things stand out for me in Holland. The first is how well the place seems to run. Not only does the country's infrastructure work exceedingly efficiently, but the beautifully maintained houses, farms and factories and the friendly and considerate attitudes of the locals in what is a very crowded country, all point to a strong social conscience. Behind the scenes there is no doubt much to dislike of course but to an outsider, it could be (apart from the weather), a good place to live and I believe the country is well-equipped for the future. I am also delighted to be constantly taken back to our time in Huis Ten Bosch, the Dutch village/theme park in Japan where we stayed for 2 years. Huis Ten Bosch re-created the “best” of Holland in a precise display of famous buildings, windmills, gardens and a million Van Gogh replicas. The Gouda Town Hall photo below could have been taken in either country.

Town hall at Gouda

Dutch architecture behind a traditional bridge, 16th century?

Aboard Burra Billa in Utrecht, Holland

2011-07-31T12:38:00.000-07:00

Burra Billa beside the River Vecht at Maarssen

Utrecht is one of Hollands first towns, almost 2000 years old but is still fresh and well kept. Our approach was stunning. The River Vecht runs through a semi commercial/residential area where it becomes a canal which led to our first lock. A 1 metre lift, it was a very sedate affair compared with last years experiences in France. From then on it was pure Holland. The canal is set several meters below the road and the lower level is lined with restaurants, full with holidaymakers enjoying the rare sunshine as they sat under umbrellas at tables set on the cobblestones beside the water's edge. The canal twisted and turned and, as we motored beneath bridge after bridge, our seamanship was open to fearsome scrutiny from the crowds just meters away. We were so close we could have nicked one of their delicious Dutch pastries!

Following the crowd of boats through Utrecht

One of many stately homes along the river's edge

We have bought museum passes and have seen five or so already. Each has been well worth a visit and there are many more to see. We've been using our bikes too, joining the throng of cyclists - it's the most popular way to get around.

Weesp, Holland

2011-07-22T13:09:00.000-07:00

I'm in another world! Airline travel seems to highlight the difference between my life in a small yachting community in Tasmania and as it is now, living aboard a canal barge, currently in the town of Weesp in Holland. It is holiday time in Europe and the waterways are packed with sailors guiding craft of all shapes and sizes from sleek sculls through traditional Dutch barges to 760 ton commercial barges gliding just metres past our saloon window. Alison and I have just farewelled the 2nd partner (there are 3 of us) in our newly acquired canal cruiser named "Burra Billa" (aboriginal for distant river). It's a time to learn about the boat, plan a route through Holland for the next 3 months and do some walking and bike riding trips around this very pretty area. Our options are to take the boat to as many places as we can or to use the excellent train network to visit this relatively small country while we leave BB in marinas close to Amsterdam. I've spoken to 3 skippers on nearby boats and already have 3 different suggestions - all adamant in that enthusiastic Dutch way.

In the few days we have been here we have enjoyed a dinner at a canalside restaurant and have climbed the ramparts and towers of Muiden Castle, a mere 700 years old. There is so much to see and do, it all adds up to a really exciting and different holiday ahead of us.

Picture perfect Muiden castle - Muiderslot

A tight squeeze through the opening bridge for this 760 tonner

Kettering

2011-06-07T20:53:00.000-07:00

Snow on the mountains, strong, cold SW winds and long underwear. That's Tasmania in the Winter! There are occasional fine days though and these are great for short cruises "down the Channel" to protected anchorages like Port Huon and the cosy pub at Kermandie with it's roaring fireplace and convivial company. That's where I was recently but our thoughts are focussed on our upcoming trip to Europe. In a few days time, we'll fly to the US west coast for 2 weeks then across the top to Holland where we will pick up our canal barge to live aboard for 3 months. No lumpy seas or hopefully any snow there, so we are looking forward to the change. With some luck I should be able to post a few pictures of life aboard a different craft while illywhacker stays curled up in her berth at Kettering.

From the website, click on the link in the diary to see the blog and a photo of "Burra Billa".

2 March 2011 Port Davey, Tasmania

2011-03-01T20:56:00.000-08:00

Bleak, rainy, cold yet magnificent, that's Tasmania's SW coast - in Summer! The winds here at 43S howl in unencumbered across vast distances of the Southern Ocean. Illywhacker is tied in a web of lines to stunted trees ashore with 2 other boats in a small cove off the Bathurst Channel. We need to wait 2 more days for a projected lull before we can explore this fascinating place. The surface waters are such a dark tannin that no light reaches down more than a metre or so and the sealife there is more like that found at much deeper ocean depths. It is a unique and beautiful waterway just a few days sail (plus some judicious picking of the right weather) away from illywhacker's berth in Kettering. Very special cruising.

31 December 2010 Kettering, Tasmania

2010-12-30T18:00:00.001-08:00

2010 was a good year for me, something I'd never have thought possible
at the beginning. The sail from Townsville to Kettering was a great move
- from the moment I arrived, friends new and old took care of me.
Illywhacker is now in her berth at the new Kettering marina and I get to
spend several nights a week aboard, usually tackling the endless list of
repairs and improvements but mostly just enjoying the ambience of life
on the water. I sail in Wednesday night races and occasionally get to
enjoy some of the many quiet anchorages in the D'Entrecasteax Channel.
To expand my onboard workshop I bought a large shed, the dream of every
Aussie man. The fact that it is sited on 5 acres of beautiful bushland
has thrown a spanner in the cruising works with me spending many hours
just enjoying the peace and quiet, gazing at the native landscape and
getting life into perspective. All this is just 3 minutes from
illywhacker's berth! But the best part is that I am sharing all this
with a dear friend, Alison who also once lived on Pittwater in Sydney
and has moved to Hobart. For 3 months this year we enjoyed the idyllic
experience of cruising the French canals in a 109 year-old Dutch barge
loaned to us by friends Penny and David. As a fitting conclusion to the
year I was privileged to share my 70th birthday at a great party with
friends from across my lifespan. An event like that does give one cause
to reflect and there is no doubt I have been most fortunate, through
both the adventures I've had and the friends I've met. May all your
dreams come true in 2011.

7 November 2010 Kettering, Tasmania

2010-11-06T23:32:00.001-07:00

Back aboard illywhacker in Kettering after a fascinating 3 months in
France aboard the totally different craft, "Anja". It is certainly a
great way to see Europe, gliding along smooth canal waters, stopping
wherever one pleases for sightseeing, eating and drinking at a very
leisurely pace. Could be habit-forming!
Life in Tasmania is equally good. Sailing, boat jobs, bushwalking and
setting up my new shed all in the company of good friends occupy my days
here. Next month I'll drive to Sydney to collect and bring back my
diminishingly-important junk - at least it will all be in the one place.
While in Sydney I will enjoy my 70th with friends and family - where did
all those years go? It was the 2nd anniversary of Lyndall's passing on
the 4th. She's still with me these days in a mellowed, accepting way.

20 July, Montbard, Burgundy Canal

2010-07-20T05:39:00.000-07:00

The Burgundy Canal adventure began from Migennes and will end at Venary-Les Laumes near the site of the famous battle fought by the Gauls against Julius Caesar in 52 BC. The excavated Roman ruins there are a landmark in history and also mark the beginning of the staircase locks leading to the Pouilly tunnel, a no-go area for Anja. So after visiting the area we will return to Migennes and make our way across to the Loire area.

Canal barging is certainly a pleasant way to see the countryside. We’ve seen little traffic so far and quite a few have been marked with a “G’day mate” as other Aussies or Kiwis slowly motor past us in the narrow canals. The Dutch monster leaving the lock in the photo took off at speed and tried to suck us into it’s hull side. The hire boat behind us wasn’t tied up as we were and had a rough time. The canals are just 2m deep and a barge that size pushes the water in front, dropping the level substantially behind hence causing first a forward force then a vaccuum to the concern of other traffic like us.

Our days are spent doing perhaps 10 or 20 km and up to 10 locks before stopping around 6. We then have 3.5 hours of daylight to ride to the nearest village, prepare the BBQ and have a few local wines. First thing in the morning, around 0830! we cycle to the nearest Boulangerie for our fresh baguettes and croissants for the day - Oh it’s tough!

All Aboard ANJA on the Nivernais Canal

2010-07-04T07:29:00.001-07:00

Alison and the barge owners Dave and Penny aboard ANJA waiting for a lock to open. Well, actually it's me waiting for the water to fill the lock before I wind the handle!

24 June 2010 Paris, France

2010-06-24T13:21:00.001-07:00

While illywhacker lies patiently at her berth in Kettering, her owner is on the other side of the world, about to experience a whole new cruising lifestyle. Alison and I are about to spend 3 months aboard a canal barge in France. If you wish to follow this journey, please click on the link above to be transferred to my blogsite.

A Few Days in Paris

2010-06-24T10:02:00.000-07:00

After a 22 hour flight from Sydney via Singapore, we needed a few days rest before heading aboard our new floating home for 3 months. We were most fortunate to be invited to stay in Sylvie's apartment in the Latin Quarter. Alison took this shot from the window. Paris on a sunny day - beautiful.

Determined to beat the dreaded jetlag, we took to the streets. We'd both been here previously but this time we particularly enjoyed wandering about, just to soak up the ambience.

Today we struggled with our heavy bags up and down the Metro steps in morning peak hour to board our scheduled train to Auxerre where we were to meet David and Penny aboard their new barge. When we arrived it was most disappointing to learn that all trains had been cancelled due to a strike. We also learned from David that even the lock keepers were on strike so for us it was to be another day touring the sights of Paris - tough luck!!

5 June 2010 Quarries Bay, Bruny Island, Tasmania

2010-06-04T19:41:00.001-07:00

It might be winter but there is immense satisfaction in an anchorage
that is all ours to share only with the wildlife. There is no other
boat to be seen and yet we're just 2 hours sailing from illywhacker's
Kettering homebase marina.. The Tasmanian waters of the D'Entrecasteaux
Channel and beyond form marvellous cruising grounds which will take
quite a while to fully explore. Illywhacker is once again a cruising
yacht. With me is Alison, an experienced sailor and an old friend from
Sydney. It's good to have someone aboard who can take this 20 tonne
yacht into a berth with confidence and who knows how to throw a line.
Together we have planned an altogether different waterborne adventure
too. In a few weeks we will fly to France and live aboard a friend's
canal barge for 3 months. It's something I've always wanted to do,
especially when the weather at sea made me ask "what are am I doing out
here?" Hopefully the swell in the French canals will always be
manageable. I'll do me best to keep this diary updated as we go along.

25 March 2010 Kettering, Tasmania

2010-03-26T16:40:00.001-07:00

There first rays of sun cast a red glow over the mirrored waters of the harbour, reflecting off the many yachts at anchor before coming to rest on illywhacker, tied to the outer dock where she arrived last night. This is the first day of a new life for me. It is a beautiful beginning ... and it is Lyndall's birthday. On my arrival here after a fast passage from Sydney I have been greeted by many friends and fellow yachties, all part of what seems to be a wonderful community. At last I can slow down, work on illywhacker, enjoy the magnificent environment of Tasmania, perhaps write another book and generally come to understand myself as an individual.

27 February 2010, Lemon Tree Passage

2010-02-27T01:35:00.000-08:00

I'm exhausted! After 5 weeks with my head in the engine room, I emerged
yesterday for a test run of illywhacker's new Yanmar in the waters of
Port Stephens. Never has she moved so quickly under motor - and looked
so clean afterwards! So now it is the big cleanup, get the boat ready
for sea again and have a short break before heading to Sydney then
further south to Tasmania. This has been a successful and very pleasant
port. I've made so many good friends that if I stay any longer, I'd
never leave. It has always been Lyndall who reminded me how short life
is and how much of this wide world we haven't seen as a means of
dragging me onwards. Now it's up to me - another step forward.

21 January 2010, Lemon Tree Passage

2010-01-20T14:38:00.000-08:00

I'm back aboard after a very pleasant stay in Tasmania. So pleasant in
fact that the plan now is to sail there once the new engine is
installed. Yesterday I was able to lift the old one off it's mountings
and into the cockpit, leaving a big dirty hole below. I'll need to
replace the exhaust system, mount a bracket for the refrigeration
compressor, wire in the new engine and fit the hot water system among
many other jobs best done without an engine in the way. However, life is
good here with many locals offering help so I'm looking forward to the
weeks ahead.

23 December 2009 Hobart Tasmania

2009-12-22T23:13:00.001-08:00

I'm in Tasmania researching potential crew for illywhacker at the same
time as enjoying the company of old sailing friends. The waterways
around this most southern state of Australia have some similarity to
Canada and even Alaska. If I were to cruise these waters in the future,
the heaters aboard and efficient insulation would most certainly be
appreciated. There are many quiet anchorages here with good fishing,
challenging walks and plentiful bird and animal life. After my last year
of despair and subsequent gradual rebuild, perhaps a year of local
cruising would be a good tonic. To all those friends and readers of this
diary, I thank you for allowing me a diversion from the true purpose of
this, a cruising yacht site. While illywhacker and her travels have been
my life, none would have been possible without Lyndall, my companion all
the way. Losing her has meant a huge adjustment which has been reflected
in these paragraphs and I thank all those who have written with kind
emails of support. May you all have a happy holiday season and an
adventurous 2010.

6 December 2009 Lemon Tree Passage

2009-12-05T14:28:00.000-08:00

The injector pump was repaired in 3 days at Airlie Beach and we once
again took to sea for what turned out to be 4 great days of sailing
under NE winds over the aft quarter. The motor was barely needed which
was fortuitous since when it was called upon the alternator threw it's
drive pulley and the engine fresh water pump which shares the belt also
stopped, subsequently overheating the engine. Another tow saw us in Tin
Can Bay where we managed to obtain a new alternator after 2 days. A
frustrating further 3 days of motorsailing with much of my time spent in
the engine room saw us in this lovely marina in Port Stephens. I am now
1000nm from Townsville and just 80nm from illywhacker's home port
calling in initially to wait out 5 days of strong southerlies.
I must be settling back in to cruising as I rather like this place and
have decided to stay for a few months. It is an ideal location to fit a
new engine and as Lyndall always wanted a larger Yanmar I once again
find myself carrying out my Captains orders. Over the xmas period though
things quieten down even more around here so I will travel to Tasmania
to check out my ultimate destination and catch up with a few friends.

Airlie Beach 18 November 2009

2009-11-17T14:47:00.000-08:00

On the positive side, illywhacker has left her berth in Townsville and
has covered the princely distance of 150nm south towards Sydney.
Shamefully I have to report that my attention has been focussed on the
outcome rather than the basics of all cruising journeys - ensure you
have clean fuel. With a forecast of light northerlies, using the motor
most of the time was a certainty. As illywhacker has been languishing
with fuel in her tanks for 4 years she was bound to develop
contamination problems so I have no excuse. Around 0330 on the second
day the engine stopped and no amount of filter changing and bleeding
would start it. So after a kind passing yacht from Townsville towed us
to this marina, we now have the injector pump in for service. The
weather is perfect for the trip south so waiting here is frustrating -
something we'll need to get our head around.

Townsville 12 November 2009

2009-11-11T16:31:00.001-08:00

Sometimes cruising means waiting for the right weather before setting
out. My journey is taking me to Sydney, some 1200nm south along the
Australian east coast. At this time of the year the SE Trade winds
usually give way to more benign northerlies but we're still waiting for
these to arrive. A mate and I did head off last Thursday but strong SE
winds (from directly ahead) and an increasing forecast made a retreat to
Townsville the prudent option. It appears as though next Tuesday will
offer an opportunity. Meanwhile, there is always a job or two to be done
on board.

Townsville 3rd Nov 2009

2009-11-02T22:02:00.001-08:00

Tomorrow is the anniversary of Lyndall's passing. It will be a sad day
here on board but there is also a feeling that the future is looking
better. The following day should see a change in the weather and some
gentle NE'lies to push illywhacker south to Sydney over the weeks ahead.
An experienced mate has volunteered to help with the passage so with
Lyndall looking on, illywhacker will once again feel water swishing
under the keel.

Bath UK 17 Oct 2009

2009-10-17T09:26:00.001-07:00

Tomorrow I fly home to Australia after a very fulfilling 2 months away.
The UK and Europe part of my trip provided a cultural contrast to the
North American section. Both however, were made possible by kind yachtie
friends from our past cruises. I was fortunate in being able to stay
with Robert and Jenece aboard their canal cruiser in the Arsenal marina,
right in the centre of Paris - a great way to explore that fascinating
city. As a contrast, I took the train to the calm forests of the
southern centre of France for a few days with Dominique and Nicolas, an
amazing couple whom we met in Alaska after their 3 year cruising
adventure in Pataginia. Now in the ancient city of Bath with our son
Matthew, his wife Julie and baby Thomas, my visit is complete.
Illywhacker is calling for a new journey.

Calgary, Canada 23rd September 2009

2009-09-22T10:18:00.001-07:00

I'm halfway through my so far very rewarding, pilgrimage of remembrance.
Tonight I fly out to the UK for an introduction to our new grandson,
Thomas. His parents, Matthew and Julie are happily ensconced in Bath and
whilst there I plan to visit friends in England and Europe. Staying in
Sidney BC with Barbara and Gerry was a welcome renewal after several
weeks on the move. Using their lovely house as a base I ranged out to
visit Marilyn (a friend from Cordova Alaska) in Port Townsend where we
enjoyed the wooden boat show together as well as spending a day with
Sunshine, another intrepid ocean sailor now living on Saltspring Island.
On our journey in 2002/3, Lyndall and I really got to like the people
and the waterways in and around BC and I have been investigating the
possibilty of finding another vessel as a temporary measure to cruise
here for 6 months in 2010.
A short ferry trip from Sidney to Pender Island allowed me to visit Urs
and Judy aboard their beautiful yacht "Raven Song". They divide their
time between cruising the area and working on their mountain top cabin.
Urs is a wonderful photographer and a visit to his site is a feast of
images that will explain my fascination with the area. take a look at
www.ursboxlerphotography.com/
At the Vancouver ferry terminal I was met by Bob Miller. Lyndall and I
met him and Marg aboard their yacht Galatea in Singapore in 1981 so this
time despite grey hair and decaying memories we recounted adventures
from the days of our circumnavigation. Bob took me to The Vancouver
Maritime Museum where for the first time face to face, I met Chris and
Margie living aboard "Storm Bay" from Tasmania. We have been
communicating for several years thanks to this website and were able to
happily carry on as old cruising friends from way back.
A fabulous 2 days aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, a luxury train from
Vancouver brought me here to Calgary, ready for the next leg and more
dear friends and family. It has been the life of a cruising yachtie and
the shared memory of a wonderful woman that has given me this privilege.

Sidney BC 7 September 2009

2009-09-06T16:04:00.001-07:00

After a whirlwind trip across the NW of USA, courtesy of Dolores,
visiting old sailing friends in various parts of Washington State I'm
now in Canada. Comfortably ensconced with Barbara and Gerry with a cool
drizzle outside, I'm at the computer planning the next few weeks visits
to sailing friends that Lyndall and I met during our cruising here in
2002/3. Hard work this suitcase living but very nice when you can arrive
and put your feet up.

Nevada USA 27th August 2009

2009-08-26T23:03:00.000-07:00

I'm a week into my pilgrimage to the USA, Canada, UK and Europe,
visiting friends that Lyndall and I made on our travels over the years.
Already I've stayed a few days in San Francisco aboard MV Nalu with Jim
and Diana Jessie whom we met and cruised with in Japan. After that our
wonderfully extrovert Alaskan friend Dolores collected me in her
Cadillac SUV for a spin across the northwest. We've been burning rubber
along highway 395 today to ear-splitting renditions from Jimmy Buffet
and tonight we're among the glitter of Nuggets' Casino in Sparks Nevada.
I'm having the 100% American experience - to focus the senses says
Dolores! Hopefully I'll reach the Canadian border in one piece next week
- I'll certainly be richer for the experience.

Townsville 24th July 2009

2009-07-24T00:24:00.001-07:00

Blue skies, 15 knots of warm breeze on a smooth sea, a seafood meal and
a great red wine - life doesn't get much better, especially when you're
sailing with a dear friend. That's my lot aboard illywhacker these last
few weeks. The motor, refrigeration AND my new electric winches.... in
fact all systems aboard seem to be running well and I'm now reaping the
rewards of a few months work. My optimism for the future has returned -
maybe there are some more cruises left in the man and his boat!

Townsville 6th June 2009

2009-06-06T04:30:00.000-07:00

illywhacker is still a mess. The refrigeration repair became a major
rebuild with both the 12volt DC and the 240 volt AC system requiring new
condensors and a complete overhaul. I took the opportunity to utilise
the much greener, hydrocarbon style refrigerants too. A mate flew up
from Sydney to help with the installation of my newly electrified sheet
winches. I'm glad he did as it was a full week's work ... and I'm still
not finished. After he left I was exhausted physically and I felt lonely
and drained emotionally. In the past I always had Lyndall to call upon
to provide some common sense and direction. Without her guidance I just
felt a deep, deep emptiness which as usual was slowly mended with a few
tears. Will this be the pattern for the rest of my life?

Townsville 9th May 2009

2009-05-09T18:06:00.001-07:00

I've been back aboard illywhacker for 2 days now - and confronted with
an impossible stowage task. Moving out of the house somehow resulted in
a ridiculous amount of gear that came with me in the car - I just
couldn't decide what else to do with it! The outside of the boat is in
desperate need of a clean due to 6 months of savage onslaught by
cormorants, but I'm still confined below, scuttling about moving boxes
from one place to another. At least it doesn't give me any spare time to
feel too miserable and I'm sure Lyndall would approve. She loved putting
things in their designated places, cleaning, labelling and testing them
all in readiness for our next passage. It will be Mother's Day tomorrow,
another sad hurdle for me.

Sydney 25th April 2009

2009-04-24T16:42:00.001-07:00

There's been a fair bit of activity in my life over these last few
weeks. Matthew and Julie moved to the UK early in the month giving me
the incentive to commence the clearing out processes needed to downsize
from this house and move aboard illywhacker. Currently I have 1 chair, 1
bed and a half-empty refrigerator....the house looks quite bare! The
plan is to drive away from Sydney with an impossibly full car later next
week and head for Townsville, staying with friends along the way.
This is the beginning of a new phase for me...me the individual...me the
uncertain. But if I can stay positive on the journey north, I'll be
able to draw upon our great store of memories and when I climb onto
illywhacker's waiting decks with my ever-present companion, together
we'll be ready to start our next adventure.

Sydney 25th March 2009

2009-03-26T04:26:00.001-07:00

Lyndall's birthday today. I took an early walk along our favourite beach
and watched as grey clouds lifted and the sun came out from behind.
"OK", she was saying, "it's time to get on with your life". And my
clouds are lifting. Friends have been generous in their invitations and
I have cruised to Lord Howe island on a 10 day power boating adventure,
crewed in a weekend race and several evening races as well. Readjustment
takes time but I am moving ahead with the downsizing needed to move out
of this house and back aboard. It's a case of "everything must go" -
except those vital items that will fit into my car for the trip north to
Townsville and hopefully find a space on illywhacker. We've done it
before and those who have gone through the process will recognise the
painful decision chain that separates living aboard from a house on
land. Challenging, sure... but what a great lifestyle.

Sydney 14th February 2009 - Valentines Day

2009-02-23T22:36:00.001-08:00

The rain eased briefly this morning and under an overcast sky we motored out into an empty Pittwater in Joysea, an old converted timber trawler. There were 12 of us aboard, our adult children and a few friends quietly watching the chuckling wake. On the saloon table surrounded by flower petals lay a small cardboard box which carried a silver plaque, engraved Lyndall Aston. We were about to honour her last wish. Recycle my bodily remains, she had said, but keep my spirit in your hearts.
Pittwater is where we learned to sail as kids together, where we built our house called Toad Hall and where we built illywhacker. Setting her ashes free in these waters was both natural and necessary.
When the engine stopped we drifted to an outgoing tide beside the bushland shore. I was weeping as I bade her farewell on her next ocean journey, gently lowering the box into the water. Petals were scattered after it and we watched in teary silence as it slowly drifted away. Our son David and a friend recited a poem each as she slowly gathered way, surrounded by a floating tribute of white and yellow. We felt deeply alone but united in her love - there were hugs all around as our dear Lyndall sailed away.

Sydney 25th January 2009

2009-02-23T12:15:00.001-08:00

My feelings of loss are still as deep as ever but the pain of dealing with it is easing a little. I am hesitantly making plans for the future and with an end to Northern Australia's tropical Summer approaching I am looking forward to once again living aboard. It won't ever be the same but it will be familiar territory. All the advice I've received however is not to make any major lifestyle changes for at least 2 years. My beautiful house near the water in Sydney may not be home as is illywhacker but it is central to my support group of family and friends so I'm reluctant to let it go while I live aboard this time around. I think what I would like most is for a like-soul to move in on a walk-in, as-is basis, use all my stuff, pay the bargain rent and to enjoy living here as I do now for 6 to 12 months. If the idea of a move to Sydney, Australia appeals to you, please email me.

Sydney 25th December 2008

2009-02-23T12:14:00.001-08:00

The first Christmas without Lyndall has been the saddest day ever. It seems that after 7 weeks and 2 days, I am now running on empty. My exhausted body has stopped producing the endorphins that have so far kept me on an adrenalin high and the reality of it all has now set in. The advice I have is to go gently, stay well and steer clear of any decisions of consequence. So my creative side is on hold for a while - but stay tuned!

Townsville, 3rd December 2008

2009-02-23T12:13:00.001-08:00

I have been aboard illywhacker for 6 days now, alone. Marina friends have been dropping by, offering condolences but embarrassed by my tears, scurry away to their own boats along the dock. With strength of purpose I rise early for a walk and swim, determined each day to make a start on the list of boat tasks. But all it takes is for me to hold one of her favourite things and all around me, paintings, artifacts, books scream out ... Lyndall selected me, Lyndall put me here, she's here, and here and here. I just don't know if I'll ever stop sobbing after such episodes. The day then takes on a desultory pace, the list lying discarded. As each day passes though, the joys of living aboard occasionally shine through and the promise of a sail on the sparkling waters of the bay offers just a little cheer. They say this sort of behaviour is normal - it's a first for me!

Sydney, 17th November 2008

2009-02-23T12:12:00.001-08:00

Thank you dear friends for your condolences and kind messages of support. Never before have I felt so empty inside, so rudderless and unmotivated. All around me here are tearful reminders of Lyndall so I have decided to drive the 2300 Km north to illywhacker, visiting friends along the way. Being aboard again will no doubt trigger more tears but I need to be reminded of our shared dream ...and to continue with it.

Sydney, 4th November 2008

2009-02-23T12:11:00.001-08:00

Bedside days and nights uncounted
Her body morphine-wracked
Each gentle touch, each smell, each sound an anguish
My life companion drifts away
Leaving me to flounder
In an ocean of tears

Lyndall - died Today 4th November 2008

Her earthly form to earthly matter
Her spirit in my heart

Sydney, 28 October 2008

2009-02-23T12:10:00.001-08:00

Things are not going as we would want. Just a week before the scheduled operation Lyndall's lung infection returned with a vengeance. She has been battling high temperatures and a racing heartbeat so she is now being monitored in the cardiac ward. The splenectomy operation has been postponed until she is stronger. I just hope that is soon - her enlarged spleen now prevents her from eating solids and causes pain where it presses on her lungs, heart and adjacent organs. It is so hard to see her like this but she is firmly focussed on a good outcome so she keeps my spirits alive.

Sydney, 9 October 2008

2009-02-23T12:09:00.001-08:00

Finally I have Lyndall at home. She still has a good deal of pain but hopefully we can manage that as part of the process of steady improvement in her fitness levels. We only have 3 weeks before she is back in hospital for an important operation to remove her spleen. She will then need to be free of lung problems and able to walk about and function normally - a bit of an ask at this point but we don't have any other options.

Sydney, 30 September 2008

2009-02-23T12:08:00.001-08:00

Life doesn't always work out just how we'd like. At the end of her final chemo session (#4), Lyndall contracted an infection and in her weakened state is having a desperate struggle to regain her strength. She went back into hospital last night suffering a high level of pain with pleural pneumonia. It is imperative that she begins to breath deeply and move about to clear her lungs. Proper pain management is necessary to facilitate this - something we found hard to arrange at home. I've just spent 12 days at her bedside in hospital and after a 4 day break it's back there again. This is a very stressful time for her and it distresses me to see her so low.

Sydney, 23 August 2008

2009-02-23T12:07:00.001-08:00

We've completed chemo session #3. One more to go, then the next phase will begin. Lyndall's specialist could not be happier, he's amazed that the leukemia symptoms have all but disappeared which is certainly good news. However, Lyndall feels very weak and uncomfortable due to her super-enlarged spleen, the result of ongoing blood transfusions and a new production regime from the revitalised bone marrow. The idea now is to remove it when she is able to cope with the operation. It will be a tricky procedure and getting her to improve her fitness when she is so weak won't be easy. So ... even if it hurts it's back on the exercise bike for her while I schedule an increase in fresh juice production as we try to keep an optimistic outlook. Our previous idea of driving to Townsville together just won't work with so much medical treatment going on so I will again fly up to prepare illywhacker for the trip south. This time I will be accompanied by an American couple, Ral
ph and Glenda who have left their yacht Our Country Home in French Polynesia while they visit us. They have agreed to sail illywhacker south to Sydney. It is an arrangement that suits us both. They will see some of Australia with a leisurely cruise in the season of northerly winds and we'll finally have our floating home back. Hooray!!

Sydney, 17 July 2008

2009-02-23T12:06:00.001-08:00

Lyndall's last blood test showed a significant improvement which the specialist puts down to the first round of Vidaza. He is delighted with such a rapid response and has scheduled the second round for next week. Although Lyndall still feels weak we are buoyed by this news and are already making plans to for both of us to drive north to illywhacker in October. Optimistic?.. maybe but I'm hoping it will provide some incentive for that extra effort she needs to revitalise her system with some walking and getting out into the fresh air.

Sydney, 5 July 2008

2009-02-23T12:05:00.001-08:00

Lyndall's week in hospital was very hard on her but there was much kind attention from the nursing staff as they learned the new routine, it being a first for this hospital.. It took another week before she was comfortable and blood tests at that time gave us all cause for relief. Since then she has been moving about more and is feeling quite optimistic. The next session of Vidaza is scheduled for the 21st - it should be a lot easier now that we know what to expect.

Sydney, 14 June 2008

2009-02-23T12:04:00.001-08:00

Monday will be a big day. It is then that Lyndall will be in hospital for 5 days to start her treatment of a new drug called Vidaza. It is heralded as the first of it's kind that seeks to restore faulty DNA with the aim of encouraging the ailing bone marrow to produce healthy blood cells. Like most claims from Pharmacy companies it does come with some pretty severe downsides and has a 50% chance of success. However, we are giving it a go and should know whether it is working after a few months. In that period it will be a case of Lyndall feeling a lot worse before things get better. We're hoping it will all be worthwhile.

Sydney 1 June 2008

2009-02-23T12:03:00.001-08:00

It sure is a struggle. Overcoming the effects of radiation therapy has been quite hard for Lyndall. After a few days in hospital and many anxious times at home, she lost 12Kg and still has great difficulty moving about. Nevertheless, her spleen has reduced in size a little (the object of the exercise) and her blood numbers are improving. This is what the specialist is looking for and we are hoping he will suggest we start the new drug called Vidaza. He warned us that Lyndall will feel worse on this treatment before she hopefully shows signs of improving - there is a 50% chance of this happening. We've faced worse odds before so life at the illywhackers is still upbeat!!

Sydney 4 May 2008

2009-02-23T12:02:00.001-08:00

It was only yesterday, on Saturday that the engine was finally repaired. By then the crew had flown back to Sydney and friends in Townsville had taken over the role of ensuring illywhacker was safe and secure until the next time I can get up there. The SE wind pattern seems to have set in for the season and it will now be October/November before the next opportunity to sail south presents itself. At that time, NE winds start to predominate and the trip will be much easier. Meanwhile, Lyndall is having a hard time recovering from her recent radiation treatment and today was admitted to hospital for more intensive care than I can give at home. So I will be more than busy enough without illywhacker here in Sydney. Perhaps it is better that she is sitting safely in her own berth far to the north - at least I can focus my attention on the other, most important lady in my life

Sydney 21 April 2008

2009-02-23T12:00:00.001-08:00

Oh, Oh! I should have known that things don't always go smoothly on yachts. After a great start, Illywhacker and her crew of 3 left yesterday at 0630hrs and I had a report from Cape Cleveland that they were doing 6 knots into the prevailing SE'ly on manageable seas. The forecast spoke of a favourable afternoon wind shift, so spirits were high. My next report, received at 2200hrs was different! Extremely short seas, strong winds and a main engine that had mysteriously cut out. We were in poor contact and as we discussed the probable causes, radio conditions changed and communications were lost. I spent an anxious night and next morning a friend driving the backroads of Queensland rang to tell me of a news item reporting on a yacht off Cape Bowling Green (some 25nm east of Cape Cleveland) that had hit a log and sunk. My heart stopped only to recover when he said that all 6 crew were safe - it was the 24m timber training ship, Challenger Outward Bound, a sad loss. La
ter in the morning the call I'd been awaiting arrived to report that conditions had worsened. From the comfort of my stable house on land I was easily able to imagine how rotten it must have been on board and we agreed that the best course was to sail back before the wind to Townsville and locate and fix the problem there. Illywhacker sailed safely to the marina channel entrance at 1800hrs tonight and was towed in by a friendly neighbour. Tomorrow a diesel mechanic will assess the fault and determine the next step. Being so far away and unable to fix it myself is unbearable but I guess I'll just have to wait for the next call......

Sydney 19 April 2008

2009-02-23T11:59:00.001-08:00

Wow, what a week that was! It has been one of busy, and for me exhausting preparation but now illywhacker is ready for her passage south - the first passage ever without us. I was pleased with how well the yacht came alive after 12 months under wraps. Sails went on smoothly, engines, generator, pumps all started, instruments worked, heads pumped - all as if she had been just lying quietly in her berth ready for the occasion. Arrangements for Lyndall's care also went well as friends queued up to drive her to medical appointments and keep her company at home. Ralph and Leigh arrived in Townsville during the week and received exhausting and no doubt, confusing instructions on the workings of illywhacker. Jim arrived today and hopefully will understand my pages of notes on the electrics. All that remains now is for the large High pressure system to move East and for the strong southerly winds (coming from the direction of our course) to ease. This is expected to star
t tomorrow and I am anxiously waiting to hear that the passage has begun..........

Sydney 27 March 2008

2009-02-23T11:58:00.001-08:00

Storm clouds are still above but a glimmer of hope is shimmering on the horizon. Lyndall's specialist returned from an overseas conference quite upbeat over the trials of a new drug designed almost specifically for her condition. He is now negotiating with the supplier here for a small quantity for our own trial at an affordable price. They are hugely expensive but we see no option save give it a go. We expect to begin treatment in late May and the first 2 months will see Lyndall at her lowest point. After that, there is a 50% chance of improvement and a happier outlook. On the strength of such news I am arranging for friends to take over my caring duties while I fly to Townsville and spend a week preparing illywhacker. She is currently in cyclone rig and needs to be readied for sailing. Trusted friends will meet me there and sail her to Sydney while I fly back to the patient, all the while pacing the floor, worrying that all will go smoothly on the 1020nm passag
e south. After illywhacker was completed in 1996, we headed north immediately, thinking that cruising the waters around our home port could wait, we had to see the world first. Hopefully, we will now get to see some of those cruising grounds others travel to from distant ports.

Sydney, 5 March 2008

2009-02-23T11:57:00.001-08:00

It is heartening when friends email us asking for more information on Lyndall's condition. These diary entries seem so far away from their intended purpose of recording sailing stories that we feel like we've lost the plot! However, we find comfort in the idea that for various reasons most cruisers spend some time ashore. So our excuse is that while illywhacker is OK, we're putting ourselves together - a kind of medical refit. How she does it I don't know but Lyndall has the ability to remain optimistic at the same time as suffering the ups and downs of her leukemia. Life is delicate balance between supreme tiredness, abdominal pain and nausea as the chemotherapy and blood transfusions apply benefits as well as side effects. Where is that miracle cure? Her specialist thinks she has achieved wonders by merely surviving this long but our measure is different. We'd rather be sailing!

Sydney, 31 December 2007

2009-02-23T11:56:00.001-08:00

2008 begins tomorrow and I'm delighted to report we are both here to enjoy it. Despite the gloomy predictions of her specialist, Lyndall is defying their odds and continues to enjoy every new day.She is fully transfusion dependent which brings it's own set of problems, apart from the essential hospital visit every 10 days - it's like walking a medical tightrope but we've become very experienced and have learnt to identify the signs and know the necessary responses. Dying sure sharpens the senses though. Somehow the water outside here looks bluer and sparkles more than it ever did and being able to see yachts tacking up the bay from our verandah is hard to beat. To all the readers of this site, may 2008 be a safe and happy one with many a smooth wake astern.

Sydney, 18 November 2007

2009-02-23T11:55:00.001-08:00

My little flower is wilting but still smiling. Last visit we could see that the specialist was intrigued, it was as though he'd never seen such tenacity before. So I thought I'd get a different perspective on what she'd been through and produced graphs and trendlines for the blood results over the past year. I also rang the CEO of a pharmaceutical company advertising a new drug, designed specifically for Lyndall's rather rare condition. We hope we're going to reach a position where we can afford to use this drug at least for 4 months - at that time we'll know if it is working. By all accounts, it will be a hard 4 months with many unwanted side effects and much driving back and forth to hospital. But it does offer some reprieve, not a total remission but at least we'll have her around for a bit longer - hope so.

Sydney 20 August 2007

Breakwater Marina, Townsville 16 November 2006

2009-02-23T11:54:00.001-08:00

This is the season for Northerlies along Australia's east tropical coast and conventionally, anyone who has been cruising the area over winter is well advised to make the run south before December, the onset of the cyclone season. However, this is the second year in a row where cruisers have found these great sailing winds (15 knots abaft the beam) run out of puff halfway down the Queensland coast and are replaced by generally lousy weather. Yesterday's news was of a mini-cyclone in southeast Queensland that caused widespread damage to property and this followed on from another severe hailstorm a week previously. Sadly the amount of rain from these storms does little to help the generally drought-ravaged country south of the tropics (which is most of Australia). Weather patterns are definitely changing and we consider ourselves fortunate to be in a relatively benign place. Just wait until they get a cyclone. I hear you say!

2009-02-23T11:53:00.001-08:00

Sydney 2 October 2006

Townsville 1 August 2006

2009-02-23T11:52:00.001-08:00

What a beautiful time of the year it is here in the tropics! While winter rages down south, we have sunny days with blue skies and SE Trade winds blowing at 15 - 20 knots over the sparkling waters of the bay. Many yachts drop in to our marina, some just cruising the Barrier Reef, others on their way to faraway ports, so it is a busy and social time for us. Illywhacker is ready to go ... somewhere. We are determined to cast off our lines as often as we can despite the constraints of 3 weekly hospital visits for Lyndall. At least we are able to cruise easily to nearby islands and reefs and drop anchor for a few days. It seems rather ordinary cruising to us as we live here, but other yachts travel halfway around the world to experience the Great Barrier Reef - so we resolve to be more apprecaitive of our own backyard and to include more photos and stories of our present cruising life on this site. We hope you like the revamped site layout - there is much more to b
e done. If you find yourself lost when navigating through the pages, just click on illywhacker to find your way home.

Townsville 1 August 2006

2009-02-23T11:51:00.001-08:00

Townsville 16 May 2006

2009-02-23T11:50:00.001-08:00

We learnt today that sadly our dear friend John Crowley passed away peacefully in his sleep. He and Dolores were about to drive north that very day from Santa Rosa near San Fransisco to Cordova in Alaska where they had so royally welcomed us on illywhacker's arrival there in 2000. That we stayed so long in Alaska was in no small way due to the fabulous hospitality we received, much of which was thanks to John and Dolores. There were a few of us yachts in Cordova that year and we formed the very exclusive PWSYC - the distinctive burgee still flies proudly from our spreaders here in North Queensland. In 2001, we cruised Prince William Sound in company with PK and Julia on SY Fairhaven out of Bellingham, WA. The burgee we both sported then had a special meaning last week when we were fortunate to have them aboard illywhacker for a cruise out of Townsville. As defrosted Cordova yachties we rejoiced in many stories of our time there and last week we rang John on his
80th birthday. We sang happy birthday to him from the Australian chapter of the PWSYC - we were so glad we did.

Sydney 21 March 2006

2009-02-23T11:49:00.001-08:00

A miracle has happened. Cyclone Larry veered slightly north and slammed into the sugar town of Innisfail causing great destruction. All sugar and banana plantations are flattened, every building is damaged but fortunately no one was hurt. Townsville was just on the edge of the destructive wind zone and received gale force gusts without too much tidal surge. We were very lucky. However, cyclone Wati from Fiji is now on its way and following the same track. It is currently a category 2 but we are keeping a wary eye on it.

Sydney, 19 March 2006

2009-02-23T11:48:00.001-08:00

Of all the times to be away from illywhacker! We are in Sydney visiting family and friends and to enable Lyndall to see a specialist. The news from Townsville is not good. A cyclone of 935 hectopascals which is a category 4 and increasing, (5 is the max) is heading for Cardwell just 40nm to the north. Townsville expects extremely high tidal surges and destructive 280kmh winds tomorrow mid morning as it crosses the coast. I stripped the boat before I left although I can think of more I'd like to do now. Our son James has added more lines and friends are checking nearby craft. The big danger is the marina structure itself. If the water rises with the low pressure and a high tide, the walkways and pontoons may lift off or snap the piles which would cause havoc and possible loss of our priceless floating home. Nearby, friends minding our apartment some 100metres away are bringing in all outside furniture and battening down. Supermarkets and petrol stations are choked
. Our car is in the garage which could flood. This is going to be a bad 24 hours.

4 October 2005 Mourilyan Harbour

2009-02-23T11:44:00.001-08:00

Greetings from this land-locked cyclone-proof harbour in North Queensland. It is almost possible to sail past and miss the entrance even though it is a shipping port for sugar transportation. Leads take you inside without difficulty provided the tide is slack. Current from the Moresby River empties through the harbour and can create quite a rip at peak ebb and flood. Illywhacker is making her way slowly south from Cairns back to home base in Townsville. The aim being to arrive before Lyndall's next hospital session. Her weakening condition prompted the specialist to suggest we find an easier lifestyle - he obviously hasn't been aboard and sampled the liveaboard comforts. However, we did decide to rent a pad ashore and test out the theory that she would find life more comfortable.

13 September 2005 Fitzroy Island

2009-02-23T11:43:00.001-08:00

A great stretch of calm weather has allowed us a relaxing time at this Great Barrier Reef island National Park about 15nm from Cairns. There is a low-key resort here, plenty of rainforest walks and some good snorkelling over the fringing reef. Fish abound and at night we watch them splashing around the boat, attracted by the anchor light. We chose to take things easy this way rather than making too many more miles north or even driving the beautiful Cairns hinterland as Lyndall has very limited daily bursts of energy. Sitting and enjoying the view is about it!

8 September 2005 - Cairns, North Queensland

2009-02-23T11:42:00.001-08:00

Illywhacker is back in Cairns Marlin marina after a few days anchored at Vlasoff Cay. That was the ultimate paradise, a tiny patch of pure white sand set in a turquoise wonderland of coral patches scattered across a sand bottom. The anchor looked very close in a depth of 5 metres as we swung between the bommies - mounds of coral that were home to a delightful assortment of brightly coloured fish. A few strokes from the boat's swim ladder and we were able to snorkel over these living pictures with a minimum of effort - just ideal for Lyndall. It was brought home to us just how fortunate we are when a seaplane landed one morning and a young Japanese honeymoon couple alighted for a quick swim and a glass of champagne. I spoke to the only other pasenger, a young German man. He was completely knocked out by the beauty of the place - this is as good as it gets - anywhere we mused together, and to think I have to be back at work in Berlin in 3 days! he said.

31 August 2005 - Marlin Marina, Cairns

2009-02-23T11:41:00.001-08:00

A cruising glitch occurred last week. After an easy trip to Cairns the wind strength increased and it rained ..... almost continuously for 5 days. We were glad to be resting in port but for some reason, Lyndall began to feel very weak necessitating a drive back to Townsville for a week early blood transfusion. We arrived back aboard today with the Admiral topped up and both of us looking forward to discovering the local hinterland while this unfriendly weather persists. The reality of Lyndall's condition is reluctantly dawning - future cruises are destined to be within 2 weeks of home. How long can we continue?

22 AUGUST 2005 FITZROY ISLAND

2009-02-23T11:39:00.000-08:00

Sunny skies and clear blue water, that's what great cruising is all about. Orpheus seems weeks away as our subsequent anchorages at Gayndah Creek at Hinchinbrook and inside Mourilyan Harbour were calm and peaceful. The last 2 days have been 40nm days over sparkling seas, we even saw a humpback whale and her calf heading south. Our fishing has been woeful, I'll have to take lessons or give up being the ever-reliable provider of ship's tucker. Our northerly passage-making will ease tomorrow when we tie up at Cairns. This will give us the opportunity to catch up with friends and to arrange the next hospital visit for Lyndall. It's a fun place and we're looking forward to it.

19 AUGUST 2005 ORPHEUS ISLAND

2009-02-23T11:38:00.000-08:00

We are away at last. Just the 2 of us on a slow gunkhole north, hoping for no health dramas and fine weather. So far this season we have had much more rain and strong wind warnings than last winter and many cruisers are thoroughly disillusioned. Maybe the good weather will start from now? Illywhacker is currently anchored for the night as we wait for the high tide to cross the bar at Lucinda and enter the inside waters of Hinchinbrook Passage. Or maybe we'll head up the outside to Dunk Island ... ah the joy of not making up one's mind!

31 July 2005 Breakwater Marina, Townsville

2009-02-23T11:37:00.000-08:00

Illywhacker is getting back into cruising mode. We had a few days at Magnetic Island to test her systems and ourselves. Our youngest, Matthew and his new bride Julie were with us as we sorted through the minor repairs that always result from long periods of inactivity. A seized clutch on the anchor winch and a scratchy VHF were the major glitches, both due to the ravages of salt air, frequently found around boats. Our plan is to head north slowly and test the idea of finding the nearest hospital each month for Lyndall's treatment. Matthew has re-established this web diary to allow me to update it from remote anchorages or at sea, using winlink email via our HF radio. The weather is great so by mid August, we should be underway - we'll keep you posted!

06 July 2005: Breakwater Marina, Townsville

2009-02-23T11:36:00.000-08:00

Whew, what a few months those two were. Lyndall spent May in hospital and she is still recovering now. The minor infection in her toe really took over as her leukemia-compromised immune system was unable to provide the resources to fight back so she was given antibiotic drips for 6 weeks. As a result she is pretty weak, with about 4 hours a day of energy available. During that time she moves about fairly economically but typically seems to achieve her job list for the whole day. Together we are getting the boat ready for a trip north, hopefully leaving around the end of July. As for me, my role as carer has me achieving the usual daily miracles. I do admit to the occasional slip-up though, the worst being a hard-disk crash on this computer which had me wishing I'd been far more diligent in backing-up. As a result, there may be a number of good friends patiently wondering why we don't reply to their e-mails. If that is you then please give us one more chance and resend, we'll
do our best not to lose it! One of the exciting toys we now have aboard is super hookah setup. Running off 12V it is capable of supplying 2 people at 18 meters depth or 1 at 25 meters. So far I've cleaned the prop in the marina (2 meters) but we're all looking forward to sailing to the outer reef and exploring the coral wonderland there.

07 May 2005: Breakwater Marina, Townsville

2009-02-23T11:35:00.000-08:00

This diary is in danger of becoming an ongoing medical report, but since Lyndall's health problems are determining the outcomes of our cruising lifestyle and occupy much of our time this is how it is these days. She returned back to illywhacker today after an 8-day stay in hospital. She had picked up a minor infection in her toe but her immune system is so compromised she was unable to fight it and required surgery and intravenous antibiotics. Our Haematologist tells us this is the result of her bone marrow problem and will be the pattern from now on. We must be very vigilant against cuts and scratches and airborne infections - it's a hard call living in a marina. On the brighter side we are having a beautiful winter with sunny skies and fair winds. Our many friends living aboard are paying frequent visits for a chat to the patient who lounges in the cockpit like Cleopatra as the boatboy busily keeps house and serves the tea! I was once the Captain ... what happened?

8 April 2005: Breakwater Marina, Townsville

2009-02-23T11:34:00.000-08:00

The cruising season is underway here in Breakwater marina. New yachts are arriving daily, using Townsville as a base to prepare and stock-up before cruising the maze of reefs and islands to our north and south. The hardstand is becoming busy too as owners undertake antifouling and hull repairs in readiness for this year's cruise. There is an air of anticipation of great weather and great sailing in the months ahead. Illywhacker and her crew are content to watch these comings and goings while we slowly make our own plans to cruise the outer reef and maybe sail north later in the season. Friends and family have heard us speak so highly of this fabulous place we are expecting quite a few visitors this year. Time to make the forward cabin habitable - but let's not rush things, we'll have a cuppa first. Life can be tough in paradise! Lyndall is doing quite well currently, helped by the abundance of fresh tropical fruit and vegetables, walks and a daily swim. Some very kind person
gave her an electric folding bike for her birthday recently so her mobility is much improved - in fact he has to run alongside to keep up with her!

RSS now available for Illywhacker.com

2009-02-23T11:33:00.000-08:00

RSS can be used in many forms and application. E.g. Firefox, Google and some mail clients.

15 Feb 2005: Sydney

2009-02-23T11:32:00.001-08:00

We're watching the Townsville weather carefully from down south in this comparatively mild Sydney climate. So far, no cyclones up there but some monsoon rain so the nearby parks should be green and the decks well washed. Reports from #1 son James, who is checking illywhacker are that she is dry and mold-free below decks. The solar panel isn't charging battery #1 but that's easily fixed when we get back. Current plans are for that to be in early March. Lyndall's health is slowly worsening which is heartbreaking to watch and probably will put our cruising plans on hold this season.

23 December 2004 - Sydney, Australia

2009-02-23T11:31:00.001-08:00

Holiday greetings to everyone from Lyndall and Peter, crew of illywhacker. We are temporarily away from our floating home in Townsville, north Queensland as we visit our land-based friends and relatives 2,500Km to the south in Sydney, NSW. As well as serving as a break from the hot and steamy tropical weather, it is our way of reassuring ourselves that living aboard is truly what we love doing the most. While our friends here have day-to-day concerns focussed on their homes and gardens it's not something we get excited about any more and when our eyes glaze over we find ourselves planning future voyages to distant shores. Despite the rather severe limitation imposed on our adventures by Lyndall's poor health we continue to hope for a medical breakthrough that will have us casting off our lines once again. May your dreams for an exciting 2005 come true - see you out there!

17 September 2004: Hinchinbrook Island Nth Queensland

2009-02-23T11:30:00.001-08:00

We're alone again! Illywhacker is anchored in Gayundah Creek about .5nm from the main channel. It is calm and very quiet between the mangrove-lined mud banks with the occasional plop of a jumping fish or the call of one of the many birds fossicking along the foreshore. All this is set to a backdrop of the magnificent mountains of Hinchinbrook Island, deep green tropical rainforest country - it all seems like real wilderness to us as their are no other boats around, quite different to life in the marina. This is surely what it means to live aboard. We've had no success in fishing as yet but this short cruise is intended to be easy - to test the recent refit and give ourselves some quiet time as we plan life's next phase.

10 September 2004: Townsville

2009-02-23T11:29:00.001-08:00

It's been a bit of a struggle but tomorrow we untie our lines again and head off for the long awaited cruise - this time in home waters. Our plan is to do a slow crawl to the Hinchinbrook Island group and tuck away in one of the many mangrove creeks and do the wilderness thing - watch the wildlife, catch a barrumundi or two and read a book. We've been nearly 12 months out of practise at this, our stay in the marina to do a quick refit was very pleasant but somehow very time-consuming - it's easy to get distracted by all the other cruisers doing the same thing. We've installed a new PTC modem and upgraded the HF radio setup so getting that working will be fun. Hopefully this diary will now be more up to date and more about the joy of cruising.

19 July 2004: Breakwat er Marina, Townsville

2009-02-23T11:28:00.001-08:00

What a magnificent place to live aboard a cruising yacht. The weather is perfect - blue skies everyday, temperatures 12C at night to 25C during the day and we are surrounded by friendly and interesting cruisers from Australia and abroad. A scan through the sea of masts yields 10 or more Australian courtesy flags flying from the starb'd spreaders indicating the presence of a foreign flag at the stern. After so many years of being warmly greeted in similar circumstances overseas, it is our turn to welcome those people who sail into Townsville from offshore. We are still working on illywhacker but rather slowly given the amount of time spent with friends new and old both during the day and at night when a barbeque in the nearby gardens is a common event.

12 May 2004: Breakwater Marina, Townsville

2009-02-23T11:27:00.001-08:00

illywhacker is out on the hard as part of her end of passage refit. She has been stripped of all paint back to the original layer of epoxy - a long and dusty job by local man Rod and his boys. Surrounded by a large tent she sits out on the yard peninsular waiting for spraying to commence tomorrow. The weather is forecast to be perfect for the next 4 days so we should soon see the epoxy hi-build coat being applied followed by a vinyl bond-coat to key the 28 litres of antifoul below the waterline and a brilliant gloss coat of white polyurethane above. The engine has been fully reconditioned, the propellor shaft made true and the coupling and cutlass bearing renewed. The deckhead lining replacement job is almost finished and the new upholstery is stunning. All round we will eventually have a new boat - ready to sail the world again?

25 March 2004: Townsville

2009-02-23T11:26:00.001-08:00

Lyndall received a new digital camera for her birthday today. A Nikon Coolpix 8700. With thousands of photos in our database reflecting her artistic way of seeing the world, she has earned an upgrade to the latest technology. Expect some tropical adventures on the website this year. Meanwhile, we are toiling in the late Summer heat to ready illywhacker for the coming winter (when the best tropical cruising is done). The engine is coming out for an overhaul and below decks she'll have new upholstery, cabin lining and the long awaited do everything cruising computer. It has been 9 years since we moved aboard and although she could still be described as showing few signs of wear, we like it when she looks as new!

12 Feb 2004: Kettering, Tasmania

2009-02-23T11:25:00.001-08:00

Travelling by land and air, we arrived in this great little harbour to catch up with a number of sailing friends from Sydney. It is strange to report that all sailed here, liked it so much they dropped the hook and moved ashore. Seeing the large tracts of vacants bush blocks with views across the water to Bruny Island is tempting to do the same but somehow we don't feel ready just yet. Living aboard is still our preferred lifestyle despite Lyndall's increasing lack of mobility. However, Tasmania has the same natural beauty, climate and the kind of people we like to hang out with - similar to our experiences in Canada's Gulf Islands and New Zealand. Even in such a beautiful part of the world we are looking forward to being back on illywhacker, now expected late March.

7 January 2004: Sydney

2009-02-22T12:07:00.000-08:00

Seasons Greetings to all. Lyndall and I hope that 2004 will bring lots of sailing adventures for everyone reading this website. We are enjoying living in our friend's boatshed on Pittwater in Sydney where the water laps under the floor and the king tides wet our feet. Here we are catching up with friends and family and getting our fill of big city life. The good thing is that we can buy all the things illywhacker needs but getting through the traffic makes us long for Tuvalu!

23 November 2003: Breakwater Marina, Townsville

2009-02-22T12:06:00.000-08:00

The end of November signals the beginning of the cyclone season in this part of the world and true to form the weather is becoming unsettled with hot days and sudden showers. The rainy season is due in full force in a week or so they say. With the possiblity of a cyclone within the next 4 months we are going through our usual drill making ready for strong weather in our absence. Over the past 4 years though, such preparation has been to reduce the damage by wind-driven snow and ice. Here the rain is warm but the winds equally strong with the added enemies of mould and cockroaches flourishing below. So we are busy stripping everything moveable off the decks, all sails and lines, sunroof, cockpit clears etc at the same time ensuring a flow of air through all cabins. This packing up of illywhacker is so we can head south to visit family and friends in Sydney. We miss the boat when we do this so I won't be surprised if we're back in a month or 2, seeking respite from the sun in
air-conditioned comfort below decks.

22 October 2003: Townsville, QLD

2009-02-22T12:05:00.000-08:00

I must say we have had perfect sailing weather every day since Illywhacker's arrival here 7 weeks ago - something unheard of in the higher latitudes of Canada and Alaska. I'd forgotten why cruisers sail such long distances to get to Australia and experience this climate at an ideal location such as the Great Barrier Reef. Perhaps we have found a cruisers' paradise right on our own doorstep. It does get warm here though and in preparation for the coming Summer, our 2 air-conditioners are installed and humming away and our health restoration project is well underway. Life aboard illywhacker is relaxed and very comfortable.

8 Sep 2003: Townsville

2009-02-22T12:04:00.000-08:00

A week has passed and reality is settling in. The GPS registers no more, there is no sound of water swishing past the hull, the engine is cool and quiet and I have stopped wobbling when I step ashore. I miss it badly yet I'm enjoying the pleasures of marina life. Time enough has passed for me to finish the short accounts of the voyage home. Click the picture to the right for the concluding episodes - I hope you enjoyed reading of our passage from Canada - and we hope there will be more to write about in the future.

0900hrs Sunday 31 Aug 2003 AEST: Flinders Passage, Great Barrier Reef, Q ueensland, Australia

2009-02-22T12:03:00.001-08:00

Our journey of 7 years comes to an end as we leave the great Pacific Ocean and head towards Townsville, just 76nm away. The crew are happy to be safe in home waters. Me? I'm looking forward to being with my best buddy again a nd at the same time sad that Illywhacker - and us, will not be doing what w e love so much - being in new and faraway places. I'm hopeful that Lyndall' s health will allow us to take off again - soon.

2115 29 Aug 2003 UTC: 18S21, 150E28

2009-02-22T12:02:00.001-08:00

Course 260T, speed 6kts, wind E 15, sea SE3m. After 2 days of 25kts and 3-4m seas it is only just safe to g et the computer out. We are now 130nm from Flinders Passage, our entrance t o the Great Barrier Reef. From there we'll have just 60nm to go to Townsvil le. It has been a 7000nm journey from Canada and we've had nearly 50 days a t sea with breaks at Hawaii, Tuvalu and Vanuatu - I'm understandably a bit relieved to be so close to home. ETA Townsville is late Sunday afternoon 31 Aug 2003.

0400 26 Aug 2003 UTC: 16S48, 159E51

2009-02-22T12:01:00.001-08:00

Course 261T, speed 5.5kts, wind SE15, sea SE 1.5m Temps 25/23C. Moving along with an illywhacker roll to e ach wave we are making fair progress - 144nm noon run today. We had many sq ualls last night and tonight looks like a rerun. However, a new challenge h as emerged - eating the perishables likely to be seized by Aus Quarantine. It's gourmet meals now for breakfast, lunch and dinner. James now has a spa re tire to keep him safe from sinking and the normally slender David now ha s the physique of Arnie Schwarznegger such is his intake of healthy shipboa rd fare.

2100 24 Aug 2003: 16S18, 162E59

2009-02-22T12:00:00.001-08:00

Course 260T, speed 4.8 kts, wind E1 0, sea SE1.5m. A big Low hammered NSW last nite and the ridge has just exte nded to our area, giving us lighter winds and more ENE. Still we are glidin g (and rolling) towards home. A French sea patrol jet flew over at mastheig ht this morning, giving us all a fright. We gave the pilot our details over VHF -he was quite friendly. Yesteday was a 137nm day. this one will be les s.

0400 24 Aug 2003 UTC: 16S02, 164E36

2009-02-22T11:59:00.001-08:00

Course 260T, speed 6kts, wind S E20, swell SE2m, temps 26/21C. At sea again, this time on the last leg home , 1200nm from Vanuatu to Townsville. On board are James and his friend Davi d Haynes - 2 competent crew so the skipper can get more of his well deserve d sleep. Day one has been fast, wet and rolly but we are all travelling OK.

21 Aug 2003: Luganville

2009-02-22T11:58:00.001-08:00

Anchored in front of the Beachfront Resort allowed us last night to20 sample great food and company and learn of the delights of Santo. We are do ing an Island tour tomorrow and James has booked a dive on the President Co olidge, the largest most accessible wreck dive in the world. There are grea t coffee shops and supermarkets here and the place has a friendly feel to i t - just wish Lyndall were here and we could stay longer. Weather looks goo d for the coming 4 days. Plan to leave Sat pm 23 Aug.

2200 19 Aug 2003: Luganville

2009-02-22T11:57:00.001-08:00

Anchored at last and cleared in after an all night motoring vigil. Weather is overcast, belying the natural beaut y on Vanuatu which I'm sure is here. A front is expected to move away by Su nday and we'll leave then. James' friend David is due Fri night.

2030 18 Aug 2003 UTC: 14S48, 169E09

2009-02-22T11:56:00.001-08:00

Last night the wind died so we are motoring the last 120nm to Luganville. The wefax shows a big Low to ou r south so we are hoping it doesn't bring SW winds this far north. Weather is overcast and a little cooler.

2100 17 Aug 2003 UTC: 13S31, 171E08

2009-02-22T11:55:00.001-08:00

Course 237T, speed 5.5kts, wind E18, sea SE 3m. The SE Trades are steadily pushing us along at a 140nm/day average. The motion is jerky, sleep is difficult but the moon is out and t he temps 28C at night. Flying fish and seabirds are our only companions. Ou r ETA at this rate is early Wed morning. Seluka's big bunch of bananas ripe ned today - en masse -anyone like some?

0330 16 Aug 2003 UTC: 11S09, 174E48,

2009-02-22T11:54:00.001-08:00

course 238T,speed 5.5kts, Wind SE20, sea S2m. James and I have had a rough first 2 days out from Tuvalu. T he wind was South at 25kts with a 3.5m swell so we were beating and both fe lt unwell. The wind has eased to the SE now20and we're hoping the swell will also ease. We are approaching an interesting area on the chart with reporte d sightings of reefs and banks so all eyes will be peeled for the next 100n m. If no diary update appears due to poor conditions below, pls see the YOT REPS page on the internet for our position.

Sunday 10 Aug 2003: Funafuti, Tuvalu

2009-02-22T11:53:00.001-08:00

The pleasure of being anchored in crystal clear waters within a coral atoll lagoon are sadly overshadowed. I am alone, as Lyndall flew back to Sydney to spend the precious last few hours with her sister Sue and her family before she died early this morning. She will stay there and our eldest son James will fly to Tuvalu on Thursday to help me sail illywhacker back to Townsville.

7 Aug 2003: Tuvalu

2009-02-22T11:52:00.001-08:00

Had a great tour of Funafuti Island today. We hired 2 motorbikes - no paperwork, just walked in and were told come back when you're finished. For 4 hours it was 3.50 for the 2 of us. Called in at the Met office and discovered a convergence zone (these things are everywhere) to the south of us causing winds up to 35 kts and rough seas between here and Vanuatu. Ah well, if we have to wait around this place will do nicely.

6 Aug 2003: Tuvalu

2009-02-22T11:51:00.001-08:00

We are lying peacefully at anchor facing into a gentle Easterly breeze and looking at Fongafale town as the sun comes up in the South Pacific. Just across the coconut palms is the other side of the island on the Eastern side of the atoll and we can hear the surf breaking gently on the weather side. It's tempting to up anchor and depart for Vanuatu when conditions are so good but this place is growing on us - the people are very friendly and there are things we haven't seen yet. Maybe tomorrow...

0800hrs 3 Aug 2003 UTC: Fongafale, Tuvalu

2009-02-22T11:50:00.001-08:00

The town is on a long thin coral strip formed by one side of the atoll, which is about 7 miles wide. We are anchored in clear smooth water and have had 2 days to ourselves, just sleeping, doing a few cleanup tasks, sleeping, swimming, sleeping ..and well just catching up after the last 15 days from Hawaii. There are virtually no supplies here so we will eat in town (AUD for a meal) and meet the locals for a few days and look forward to our next fresh supplies in Vanuatu.

0100hrs 31 July 2003 UTC: 06N37, 179W32

2009-02-22T11:49:00.001-08:00

Heading 215T, speed 5.5kts, wind NE 20, swell E 2m, humid. Just as the SE Trades looked set, in comes a nasty NE'ly with squalls and a rolly sea. Just 20 hrs to go to Tuvalu and in a few hrs we'll lose a day as we cross Longitude 180. Another sleepless night coming up.

0300hrs 1 Aug 2003 UTC: Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu

2009-02-22T11:48:00.001-08:00

Halleleujah, we're a nchored inside a calm lagoon waiting Customs and Immigration - the rocking and rolling has stopped!! We sailed the 2250nm from Hawaii in 15.3 days and are now more than 2/3rd of the way from Canada to Townsville. We are looki ng forward to a long sleep and a few jobs, maybe even update the website wi th photos of Tuvalu.

0330hrs 30 July 2003 UTC: 04S38, 178W15

2009-02-22T11:47:00.001-08:00

Course 215T, speed 6kts, wi nd E12, swell E 1m, temps 30/31. Day 15 from Hawaii, 2 to go to Tuvalu, rec ord days run yesterday of 157nm for the leg. Last of the ice cream tonight but tons of food, fuel and water left. This20Trade Wind sailing could get you hooked - with reservations. After 31 days at sea from Victoria, each one d ifferent in wind strength, direction and sea swell, these last 3 have been super consistent - 10-15 kts ESE with sparse cloud cover and clear air, hot and humid.

0330hrs 29 July 2003 UTC: 02S27, 176W44

2009-02-22T11:46:00.001-08:00

Course 215T, speed 6kts, wi nd E12, swell E 1m, sea temp 25.3C, In/Out temp 31/30C. What joy, the South Pacific has turned it on for us at last. Fast and easy we speed across a v ery wide, blue expanse under a few puffy white clouds. Last night was fabul ous, cooler with brilliant stars - there was the southern cross to welcome us back to our home hemisphere. We have just 3 weeks total sailing to get h ome and 420nm to go to Tuvalu.

0200hrs 28 July 2003 UTC: 00S30, 175W21

2009-02-22T11:45:00.001-08:00

Heading 223T, speed 5.5kts, wind 0kts, swell NE1m, seatemp 25.3C. King Neptune sends his regards for th is our 5th crossing of the Equator. Celebrations were somewhat restrained b eing held under a superheated, humid clear blue sky as we motor endlessly t owards the horizon on a glassy rolling sea. Mysterious reefs 80nm ahead the n 500nm to Tuvalu. Diary updates are accumulating as contact with Wnlink st ations becomes more difficult in no-man's land.